Tastes of Texas: Along the El Camino Real de los Tejas – Full Menu Story

“How then to describe the camino real? First, it might almost be considered a living thing: ever changing its humors, taking on new roles and responsibilities, responding to the needs of a developing frontier province…Second, the caminos were the arteries that kept Texas alive.” – Jesus F. de la Teja (1)

As you take a culinary journey along the El Camino Real de los Tejas, we invite you to consider how this trail that was once an ancient Native American footpath grew to become a vital lifeline that facilitated the spread of many cultures throughout Texas. From the indigenous people who called this land home to the French and Spanish who were drawn to the Texas shores, the German and Czech immigrants, the enslaved and later Freedom Colony settlers, and the cowboys who worked the land and cattle, each culture left its mark along the trail and deeply enriched Texas’ history. At once challenging and extraordinary, this comingling of cultures is what truly sets Texas and Texans apart and makes our state’s story wonderfully complex–and our foodways delicious.

Salsa Bar

Back in 2003, the Legislature designated chips and salsa as the official state snack of Texas, and as we think about the El Camino, it’s not hard to see why. “The primary ingredients of chips and salsa have nourished the people of this land for centuries; corn, peppers, and tomatoes all originated in the Western Hemisphere and were being cultivated by Native Americans along the Rio Grande when the Spaniards, who introduced onions to the New World, arrived in Texas; tortillas, developed in prehistoric times by the Indians of Latin America, have likewise long been a staple in parts of the state,” states the House Concurrent Resolution (2). Though the flavors, ingredients, and methods of making salsa have changed through time and from place to place, as seen in the styles represented here, salsa endures as mainstay of the Texan diet.

Passed Hors D’oeuvres

Bacon Wrapped Serrano Stuffed Quail Bites

“Quail hunting in Texas is not merely a recreational activity—it’s a tradition deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of the state,” writes the Rolling Plains Quail Research Foundation (3). From Native American cooking and cowboy cooking in the northern plains to inclusion of quail in East Texas barbecue, which owes much of its unique style to African American influences and Black pit masters, quail has played an important role in Texan cuisine. The bird’s prevalence across the state and genuinely good “wild” flavor has meant that it was adopted into many foodways cultures over time.

Pecan Stuffed Mushrooms

Pecans have been a critical part of Texan foodways since ancient times. “The earliest records of our people talk about the importance of the pecan as a food source,” says Ramón Juan Vasquez, executive director of the American Indians in Texas at the Spanish Colonial Missions and a member of the Tāp Pīlam Coahuiltecan nation. Vasquez notes that mesquite, prickly pear, and especially pecans were the native foods that Spanish explorer Cabeza de Vaca wrote of in his 1544 memoir. Historians believe Spanish colonists in northern Mexico were the first to actually plant pecan trees. By the mid-1800s, the first propagation using grafts was achieved in Louisiana by an enslaved gardener known only as Antoine. This marked “the beginning of modern pecan culture,” according to horticulturists L.J. Grauke and T.E. Thompson. (4)

Beet Huarache w. Salsa Macha

The role that Mexican culture has played in the shaping of our Texan foodways along the El Camino cannot be emphasized enough. Take, for example, the huarache. Huaraches are a classic Mexican dish made of thin masa dough and various delicious toppings, in this case pickled beets, vegan queso fresco, and cilantro. It has a unique shape resembling the traditional Mexican sandals of the same name, huarache. The word “huarache” itself comes from the Purépecha language spoken by indigenous communities in Mexico. (5) Salsa Macha comes to us from Mexico along the Gulf coast and is an unusual salsa made by frying dried chiles de arbol—one of the most important chiles in jalisciense cuisine­­—with garlic in olive oil. (6)

Beef Short Rib Arepa

This dish encapsulates the spirit of cattle ranching, vaqueros and cowboy culture that imbues so much of what we call Texan. Cattle drives in Texas originated about 300 years ago with the establishment of Spanish missions, including Mission Dolores State Historic Site, along the eastern edge of the El Camino. (7) After Mexican independence in 1821, ranchers continued to bring cattle along El Camino Real, establishing large ranches along the Rio Grande south of Laredo. (8) This dish, which is also paired with arepa—a dough made of water, corn and salt—speaks to a number of cultural histories for whom corn was a critical staple, including those of South America and Native Americans. Spanish explorers of the early 1500s found Indians growing corn in East Texas, and the Spanish carried on corn culture at the Rio Grande valley settlements and the Texas missions. (9)

Plated Salad

Rio Grande Valley Citrus Salad

Inspired by the rich history of citrus growing in the Rio Grande Valley, this dish celebrates the bright, crisp flavors of grapefruit and orange. The Texas citrus industry first took off in the Rio Grande Valley in the late 1800s. During the 1930s, there was a flurry surrounding the citrus activity. Mission began a Citrus fiesta in 1932 to promote and celebrate citrus in the Rio Grande Valley. In 1937, the RGV Citrus exchange had become the largest juicing plant in the nation. (10)

Assorted Breadbasket

Cornbread

Pre-Civil War era plantation life along El Camino would have been similar to the lives we know from the Barrington Plantation State Historic Site, which is not directly on the trail. Site staff there use food to tell the story of Charity, an enslaved woman who worked as the Barrington Plantation’s cook, and the types of foods she would have prepared. Thus, this recipe for “Corn Egg Bread” comes to us from the book from What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking. This cookbook, one of the first written by an African American, was dictated by Mrs. Abby Fisher who had been a plantation cook in South Carolina. It’s one of the site’s most treasured cookbooks because it provides a good idea of what Charity would have made for the Jones family who owned the Barrington Plantation in the 1850s.

Cowboy Biscuits

Invented by Charles Goodnight for use on the initial cattle drives out of Texas, the chuck wagon was critical to the drive’s success. With a Dutch oven and some sour dough, a chuck wagon cook could feed an entire trail crew. Biscuits and beans made up the majority of what was served on the range. (11) The two main types of biscuits made by chuckwagon cooks were soda and sourdough. Their only method for baking was the Dutch oven. (12) It’s easy to imagine a cowboy, exhausted from a day’s work, thoroughly enjoying a freshly baked biscuit with his evening meal while overhead the stars of Texas began to shine.

Pretzel Rolls

As the El Camino winds down through central Texas and into towns like New Braunfels, the heritage of the German immigrants who settled in the German Belt begins to become more pronounced. This pretzel roll, a classic German bread, evokes the feeling of walking into any number historic German bakeries that can be found on or near the trail.

Plated Entrees

Boudin-Stuffed Airline Chicken w. Gravy

The star of the show, this entrée brings together Cajun (boudin), African American (collard greens), and German (German potato salad) culture foodways for a flavor combo that is nothing short of scrumptious. That these foodways can combine so beautifully to create a delicious, unique meal illustrates the true spirit of Texas – that we are a thriving blend of cultures and, together, we create something truly unique and wonderfully Texan.

Boudin – This delicious sausage filling is a Cajun icon. Cajuns, descendants of French colonists of the Maritime Provinces of Canada, settled in the “Golden Triangle” of Texas, which is Beaumont, Port Arthur and Orange. The whole state, however, has experienced the influence of this French-based culture. There are annual crawfish or “mudbug” festivals as far west as Odessa and Fredericksburg, which is mostly noted for its German background. Also in the Hill Country, there is an annual Cajun Festival and Gumbo Cookoff on Medina Lake. (13)

Collard Greens

The Southern style of cooking of greens came with the arrival of African slaves to the southern colonies and the need to satisfy their hunger and provide food for their families.
Though greens did not originate in Africa, the habit of eating greens that have been cooked down into a low gravy, and drinking the juices from the greens (known as “pot likker”) is of African origin. The slaves of the plantations were given the leftover food from the plantation kitchen. Some of this food consisted of the tops of turnips and other greens. Ham hocks and pig’s feet were also given to the slaves. Forced to create meals from these leftovers, they created the famous southern greens. (14)

German Potato Salad

The earliest written recipes for American potato salad dates to the mid-19th century. Cooked potatoes were typically dressed with oil, vinegar and herbs, which culinary historians believe were introduced by German immigrants who had a penchant for sour, sweet and spicy ingredients such as vinegar, sugar, and coarse mustard. Hot potato salad, usually made with bacon, onion and vinegar dressing, was so closely associated with German immigrants that it was called “German potato salad.” (15)

Vegan Scallops

Did you know that Texas is loaded with wild mushrooms? Mark “Merriwether” Vorderbruggen, who runs the popular blog Foraging Texas has been known to forage for edible mushrooms at Caddo National Grasslands and at other sites across the state, including those that lie along the El Camino. Texas is home to many delicious species, including morels, chanterelles, chicken of the woods, oysters and a whole buffet of others – including the King Trumpet Mushroom, which is commonly used as the “scallop” in vegan scallops. (16) With such an array of Texas mushrooms to enjoy, they can be found in iconic Texas recipes such as King Ranch Chicken and as a stuffing for Texas Quail.

Family Style Dessert Platters

Much like the families and communities that together comprise the great state of Texas, this dessert bounty reflects a diversity of cultures and customs. Celebrate the sweetness of traditions far and wide as you enjoy sweet tamales, Texas sheet cake bites, bourbon bread pudding shooter, Mexican wedding cookies and fruit tartlets.

Beverages

Frisch Auf! Beer

Thanks to Bold Republic Brewing Co., please enjoy this classic German lager which is reminiscent of the lager once produced at Kreische Brewery and Monument Hill State Historic Site located on the El Camino. In 1860, Heinrich Kreische, a German immigrant and stonemason, built Kreische Brewery in a ravine on his property outside of La Grange. It was one of the first commercial breweries in Texas. By 1879, the brewery was the third largest in the state. The brewery’s Kreische’s Bluff Beer was a favorite with locals. Whenever it was time to let the local community know that a new batch of beer was ready, the brewery would hang a banner that said Frisch Auf!, which translates to Freshen Up! This was also an invitation for major social events on the grounds. People gathered to enjoy the beer, shooting competitions, large picnics and dances. As you celebrate with us here tonight, we hope you’ll Frisch Auf your glass and have a wonderful time just the locals of La Grange used to do at Kreische Brewery. (17)

Mrs. Magoffin’s Party Punch

Step back in time to the late 1800s and say Cheers! with a party punch recipe straight from the pages of an 1898 cookbook. Although located on the de Tierra Adentro branch of the El Camino Real rather than the de los Tejas branch, Magoffin Home State Historic Site contributed this party punch recipe that is emblematic of the beverages served at shindigs across the state at this time. From The El Paso Cookbook, compiled by the Ladies Auxiliary of the Y.M.C.A., El Paso, Texas, 1898, this is Mrs. Joseph Magoffin’s personal recipe for a delicious and refreshing punch. As a social leader in the community, Mrs. Magoffin was known for her hospitality, frequently hosting social events in her home.

Agua Fresca

According to Mexican lore, the Mexica (Aztec) muddled the first aguas frescas from fruits gathered while paddling along the waterways of Tenochtitlán, now the bustling concrete monolith of Mexico City. They then added ice from the dormant volcanoes nearby. Over time, aguas frescas became especially popular among the street fare and home kitchens of Guatemala and Mexico, booming in the sugarcane state of Michoacán. (18) Today, aguas frescas are a culturally important beverage among the Mexican community. The bright, colorful drink appears at social gatherings and is also enjoyed at home, many times by virtue of family recipes known only to those who make them.

Sources:

1. Gonzales, Steven E. “History of the El Camino Real de los Tejas.” El Camino Real de los Tejas National Historic Trail Association. https://www.elcaminorealdelostejas.org/trail-history/
2. House Concurrent Resolution No. 16. https://www.capitol.state.tx.us/tlodocs/78r/billtext/html/HC00016F.HTM
3. “The Privilege of Quail Hunting in Texas: A Call to Preserve and Protect.” Rolling Plains Quail Research Foundation. https://www.quailresearch.org/the-privilege-of-quail-hunting-in-texas-a-call-to-preserve-and-protect/
4. Miller, Laurel. “Deep Roots: The Story of Texas’ Favorite Nut, From Planting to Pie-Making.” Texas Highways. https://texashighways.com/food-drink/in-praise-of-pecans-texas-favorite-nut/
5. “What is huarache food?” Huarachesfood. https://huarachesfood.com/what-is-huarache-food/
6. “Dried Arbol Chile Peppers.” Specialty Produce. https://specialtyproduce.com/produce/Dried_Arbol_Chile_Peppers_765.php
7. “The Texas Tradition of Cattle Ranching Began in Tejas.” Texas Historical Commission. https://thc.texas.gov/blog/texas-tradition-cattle-ranching-began-tejas
8. “A Brief History.” The National Park Service – El Camino Real de los Tejas National Historic Trail. https://www.nps.gov/elte/learn/historyculture/index.htm
9. Hardeman, Nicholas P. “Corn Culture.” Texas State Historical Association. https://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/entries/corn-culture
10. “Citrus Farming Industry in the Rio Grande Valley.” The University of Texas at Rio Grande Valley. https://omeka.utrgv.edu/items/show/191
11. “The Chuck Wagon.” National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum. https://nationalcowboymuseum.org/explore/the-chuck-wagon/
12. “Cowboy Biscuits.” Top 50 Ranches. https://www.top50ranches.com/blog/cowboy-biscuits
13. “Cajun Texans.” Texas Almanac. https://www.texasalmanac.com/articles/cajun-texans
14. Chef Sam Adams. “Slow Braised Collard Greens with Buttermilk Cornbread & Hot Pepper Jelly.” Luke’s Local Grocery. https://lukeslocal.com/blogs/lukes-local-blog/black-history-month-spotlight-collard-greens
15. “Foraging for Texas Mushrooms Yields a Delicious Reward.” Texas Parks and Wildlife Magazine. https://tpwmagazine.com/archive/2024/mar/ed_3_fungi/
16. “Rethinking Potato Salad.” National Public Radio. https://www.npr.org/2009/06/10/105166775/rethinking-potato-salad
17. “Kreishche Brewery History.” Texas Historical Commission. https://thc.texas.gov/state-historic-sites/kreische-brewery/kreische-brewery-history
18. “The Beauty of Aquas Frescas.” New Mexico Magazine. https://www.newmexicomagazine.org/blog/post/matteos-aguas-frescas/